This may seem obvious, but NEVER leave your black tank gates or pulls open while you are camping or using your RV’s holding tanks. We should all know that. But what about your gray tank’s pulls?

What’s wrong with leaving your pulls open?

When your holding tank release pulls are open, the tank’s contents are evacuated through your RV’s waste system and out the sewer hose attached to your RV. When your tanks are 90% to 100% full, the liquid forms a vortex in your tank, helping to wash away all of the waste material inside. A full tank empties better than one that is a third or half full.

But leaving a tank pull open allows water or liquid to seep out, leaving any solids behind. In a black tank, that means human waste and toilet paper pile up, creating a mound that will soon clog your black holding tank and cause a back up in your waste system. Yuck!

But there’s no waste in your gray tank

That’s not exactly true. Your gray tank contains soap, grease, food waste, hair, and other stuff that washes off of you at the sink or during a shower. One time, that all starts to stick together into clumps. Plus, your gray tank is the perfect environment for mold growth, especially slime mold.

By leaving your gray tank’s pull open, the water or liquid drains out, leaving this debris behind. It’s not as dire of a situation as leaving your black tank’s pull open, but it can still cause a stinky gray holding tank and even cause build up over time.

When you can leave your gray tank pull open

What about doing laundry in a clothes washer? Even low-water use washing machines can create a fantastic amount of waste water. It’s okay to leave your gray tank’s pull open when doing laundry.

The post Should You Leave Your RV’s Holding Tank Pulls Open or Closed? appeared first on Kleen Tank.

How an RV hot water heater works

There are two primary makers of RV hot water heaters, Suburban, used in most fifth wheels, and Atwood, (which is now owned by Dometic, the popular RV appliance and product manufacturer), used primarily in travel trailers. Atwood heaters tend to be smaller (6- or 10-gallon) while Suburban’s are mostly larger (12- or 16-gallons in capacity).

There are three main ways to heat the water in an RV hot water tank: Propane, electricity, or from the heat of the engine. Electric is usually the most convenient, however using the heat from your engine is the most economical (the RV’s drive engine gets hot naturally and you’re just using some of the excess heat to heat up water). Most RV water heaters are dual fuel: electric and propane. Almost everyone with a dual-fuel water heater uses electricity because it’s easier (there’s no pilot to light) and more convenient (just switch on the heater and in a short time, you have hot water).

You can use both electric and gas at the same time — doing so will result in hot water much faster. Water temperature is set at 140 degrees — HOT! — and is meant to be mixed with cold water via a mixing valve to be less scalding (though it can still be pretty hot). You can get after-market thermostats to attach to the hot water tank to fine tune water temperature.

What can go wrong with hot water heaters?

Water heaters, in general, are vulnerable to rusting and corroding, because of the composition of water and the process of how the materials that manufacturers use to make water heater tanks, such as steel, react to oxygen and moisture. There are many issues a manufacturer has to consider when designing their water heaters:

Acidity. Gasses, such as carbon monoxide, naturally dissolve in water, making it highly acidic.
Chemical processes. When steel comes in contact with oxygen or moisture, the process of rusting and corrosion begins.
Heat. Water heaters operate at a high temperature, and heat hastens the process of corrosion.
Different materials. Manufacturers use a variety of materials in designing and building their water heater, and these materials create electrical conductivity, an environment that also speeds up corrosion.

Installing an anode rod — a solid rod of either magnesium or aluminum (often with a little zinc in it) — counters many of the problems inherent to water heater operation. The anode rod succumbs to corrosion before the other components of the water heater. It delivers electrons into the tank, creating an environment that prevents corrosion of the tank and its elements. Experts often refer to the anode rod as the “sacrificial lamb,” because it sacrifices itself to corrosion in order to protect the more expensive water heater.

Generally, Suburban brand water heaters require an anode rod to protect the steel tank from corrosion. The rod is made of a metal that sacrifices itself, so that corrosion will attack the rod before attacking the steel tank. Atwood brand water heaters generally don’t use anodes because their tanks are made of aluminum.

Here’s what Suburban has to say about anodes: “All Suburban water heaters are protected by a magnesium or aluminum anode to prolong the life of the tank. Under normal use, the anode rod will deteriorate. Because of this, we recommend it be replaced annually or when consumption or weight loss of the rod is greater than 75%. Note: Water with high levels of iron and/or sulfate will increase the rate of deterioration. To extend anode life, drain water from tank whenever the RV is not being used. Avoid any extended time of non-use with water in the tank.”

Installing an anode rod in an Atwood water heater is not necessary and, according to Atwood, doing so will void its two-year warranty.

And don’t forget regular cleanings

Cleaning a hot water heating tank? Yep! You should drain, flush and clean your RV’s hot water heating tank twice a year — four times if you are a full-timer. This helps to keep the tank clean, sediment out of your usable water, and everything working properly and for a long time.

The water heater tank in your RV has a curved, convex shape to it (it dips down at the bottom). The drain plug for your tank is located behind an access door, outside your RV. That plus is roughly 1″ above the curved bottom of the tank. And that’s where corrosion and other materials can gather and be hard to get out.

Cleaning your RV’s hot water tank is pretty easy. Just follow these steps:

1. Turn off your water heater, either inside your RV at the main control panel area and, if there is one, via a small rocker switch on your water heater, outside your rig and behind the access door.
2. Turn off the water supply to your RV, both the park or shore water and via any onboard pump. You don’t want the RV filling the tank as fast as you are emptying it!
3. Open the pressure release valve. It’s located at the near the top of the water heater, outside your rig and behind the access door. It looks like a metal switch at the end of a small, short pipe fitting. You may hear sputtering and see water squirt out a bit. This is normal.
4. Using the appropriate socket wrench size (it varies by manufacturer of the water heater and whether you have an anode installed), slowly loosen the nut at the drain. This is located near the bottom of the water heater, outside your rig and behind the access door. Be prepared for water — potentially pretty hot — to come gushing out!
5. Using an RV Water Heater Flush Wand (Camco makes them, available at Camping World or Amazon.com), flush out the water heater tank. To do this, attach a garden hose to the wand (which has an on/off switch on it) and turn on the water pressure. Insert the wand into the tank and turn it on. Move the wand in and out, back and forth, and around in a circle.
6. Water will come out of the water heater tank, along with build-up, corrosion, and hard, calcified material. Keep flushing and cleaning the tank for 5 to 10 minutes.
7. Let the tank drain. Take this time to inspect the anode if you have one. If it looks very corroded (i.e. you see what looks like a coat hanger wire at the center of it, now exposed) or more than 25% of the anode is gone, it’s probably time to replace it with the appropriate size.
8. If you have an Atwood water heater and it’s out of the two-year warranty, it’s probably a good decision to install an appropriate sized (4.5″) anode to keep corrosion down.
9. Replace or install the anode or replace the nylon drain plug. Make sure to use some plumber’s teflon tape to ensure a tight, leak-free connection. Tighten the anode or drain plus securely, but do not over-tighten (especially important for the nylon drain plug which can break if torqued too tight).
10. Turn on the supply of water to the water heater. You may hear it filling up if you listen closely. It may take 3 to 10 minutes, depending on tank capacity.
11. Water will spurt out of the pressure release valve (located at the near the top of the water heater) once the tank is full. Snap the release valve closed.
12. Check the anode or nylon drain plug for drips or leaks. Tighten if needed.
13. Turn the water heater back on, either inside your RV at the main control panel area and, if there is one, via a small rocker switch on your water heater, outside your rig and behind the access door.
14. Make sure the water heater is heating water correctly.

If you’re coming to any of our rallies, be sure to stop by Kleen Tank’s booth at the vendor rally. I can walk you through the steps of flushing and cleaning your hot water tank and answer any questions you may have.We also offer a flush-out service either separately or as a part of our full-service holding tank cleaning service.

The post Hot water tanks need care too appeared first on Kleen Tank.

If there’s one thing on RVs that we’ve almost seen couples come to fisticuffs on, it’s their holding tanks. We think we know what’s going on in there and yet there’s a lot of frustration surrounding them. So let’s get to the bottom of it. What’s really going on inside those things?

What is a holding tank?

Well, as you might guess, it’s a box. A large, plastic box in almost every case (some older ones were made of metal). Rectangular in shape, they tend to either be cube-like or long, flat, and not very deep. Both types have angled bottoms that tip toward the front. That’s how waste and water flows out.

Almost all RV plumbing systems dump into holding tanks from the top. In the best of cases, waste and water comes straight down and goes into the tank, but in most cases, there’s some bends and runs in the RV waste system plumbing.

At the front of the holding tank, a large, 3-inch or 1-1/2″ (black tank vs. gray tank) hole is drilled. This is how waste gets out of the tank when the valve is pulled to empty the tank. Tanks empty themselves using gravity (i.e. waste and water flow “down hill” out of the tank and into the flexible sewer hose, then out into the RV park’s sewer system).

Your tanks are for holding, not composting

As we’ve said before, your RV’s holding tanks are not a septic system. They were not intended to hold a mass of water waste and allow it to break down. In fact, by adding tank additives that contain harsh chemicals, enzymes, or biologicals, you’re just making things worse in your holding tanks. Why?

Those additives are doing exactly what they are intended to do: break down waste in your tanks. But, they’re breaking it down into a thick, sticky slurry that has a hard time flowing out of the tank. Plus, that sticky mess is making your tank sensors misread. And it never truly all comes out, unless you have your tanks professionally cleaned by a service like Kleen Tank or any of our sister All Pro Water Flow companies.

So what do you do?

There are some “best practices” to follow when caring for your RV’s holding tanks:

• Stop using tank additives, especially those that contain harsh chemicals, enzymes, or biologicals. If you really want to use something in your tank to improve flow and keep odors at bay, our homemade solution works well and is very affordable.
• Dump your holding tanks when they are 90% to 100% full. If you have to dump them before they are full, add fresh, clean water to raise the level in the tanks.
• Use a product like the Valterra Flush King Back Flush Valve. It’s a great way to really flush out holding tanks and get them clean. Plus, they flood your holding tanks faster than your in-tank system for your black tank and you can use it on both black and gray tanks!
• Once your tanks are empty, be sure to “prime the system” in each tank by adding three to five gallons (depending on your holding tank’s capacity) to give a base of clean water to start out with. It’s also good to add the same amount of clean water to your holding tanks when you are traveling with our RV.

Get your tanks professionally cleaned on a regular basis

The post RV holding tanks: What’s going on inside, exactly? appeared first on Kleen Tank.

Want to know a secret? There’s a way you can give your holding tanks a “head start” when you’re about to use them, something that will keep them draining faster, reduce odors, and, possibly, help sensors from misreading. You want to know, don’t you?

How holding tanks work

As we’ve said before, your holding tanks are not meant to be a septic system. That’s why we don’t recommend tank additives that contain harsh chemicals, enzymes, or biologicals, meant to break down waste. In fact, as we’ve noted in other articles, it’s those additives that are causing a lot of problems.

Your RV’s holding tanks are meant to be just that — tanks that hold waste until they’re full and you can release it into the park’s waste processing system (which likely then goes to a municipal waste processing plant). So keeping “stuff” from breaking down too much helps keep your tanks working properly.

So what’s the secret?

You know you should only empty your holding tanks when they are 90% to 100% full (adding water to bring the level up if you have to empty them before they reach that critical volume). Emptying your holding tanks when they are full takes advantage of the “tornadic effect” that occurs with full tanks.

Once you’ve emptied the tanks (and flushed them out, using either your in-tank spray system in your black tank or something like the Valterra Flush King Back Flush Valve (that can be used on both tanks!), it’s a good idea to “prime the system” before using your RV’s tanks again.

“Priming the system” simply means adding some clean, fresh water to your empty holding tank after you have emptied it. Why would you want to do this? As you know, holding tanks work best when there’s a high ratio of liquid to solid waste. Adding in three to five gallons (depending on your tank’s capacity) before you starting using them again is a wise move.

The post Priming the system: An important step in keeping holding tanks working appeared first on Kleen Tank.

To be direct, no. Absolutely not. We were called the other day by an RV owner at a local RV resort. The customer couldn’t get their toilet to flush. “The stuff won’t go down,” she said. We knew exactly what the problem was.

What did we find?

We got the RV and took a look. All three gate valves were open and we knew exactly what to expect. The owner said she had her son “go and flush some water up into the tanks” but all that happened was the toilet overflowed and there was a gurgling sound from the shower and galley drains.

Long story short, the customer had a clog in the waste drain pipes from the holding tank to the flexible sewer hose. A big one. A monumental one. One that required we suit up in Tyvek. You get the picture.

So what happened?

Think about it. By leaving the black tank’s valve open, water and liquid waste seeps out. What’s left is a concentrated mix of solid waste and toilet paper. The more liquid that seeps out, the more compacted and dried out the solids become.

It took us nearly an hour just to clear the clog, plus another half hour to clean the insides of the tank with our hydrojetter. Eleven back flushes (one away from our record!) and the tank was finally clean.

The final word.

Many RVers leave their gray tank valves open. We’re not big fans of that either. Your RV’s holding tanks work best when there’s at least a 50:50 ratio of waste to water. Leaving the release valves open removes the water from equation. It’s not so bad in gray tanks, but those too can have solids drop out and accumulate in tank corners and other areas that don’t benefit from the rush of water when emptying the tanks.

Keeping the black tank valve open is just asking for trouble. Don’t do it and remember that your RV’s holding tanks are not a septic system, they are a holding system. Waste and water is intended to be retained in the tanks (essentially, large plastic boxes) until they are full and ready to be empties periodically.

The post How to get your RV’s gray holding tanks clean appeared first on Kleen Tank.

You know how to take care of your RV’s holding tanks at the RV park, but what do you do when you’re on the road? Keeping your holding tanks healthy and free from problems while you’re traveling requires just a bit of thought and planning. Here’s what you need to know.

Empty and flush, flush, flush.

You probably know this already, but the first step when traveling from one RV park to another (or, even, back home) is to empty your RV’s holding tanks. Be sure to get them as full as you can (90% to 100%) with waste and water (add more water to raise the level to full) and then empty them into the RV park’s waste sewer system, either at your site or a dump station (review the correct dump station etiquette).

After that, be sure to flush out both tanks — black and gray. Your onboard rinse system may help for the black tank, but almost no RV has this for the gray tank. A better solution for flushing and rinsing is the Valterra Flush King Back Flush Valve, something we use every time we do professional cleanings for our customers.

Now that the tanks are empty and flushed out….

It’s time to fill those tanks back up again, at least a little bit.

Assuming you are able to dump your holding tanks at your next destination (like another RV park or resort) or along the way (maybe close to your home if that’s where you’re going and you have no dump facilities there), it’s a good idea to travel with some fresh, clean water in your holding tanks (both black and gray).

Depending on your holding tank capacity, dump three (for smaller tanks) to five (for larger tanks) gallons into each tank, either through your black tank spray system (this may take up to 15 to 20 minutes) or (the faster way!) by dumping a bucket of water down your toilet and shower and/or galley drain.

Why do we add back in water?

That three to five gallons of water in your tank helps to loosen up waste as you travel with your RV. There’s really not enough agitating motion to break up mounds, clogs, or clumps, but you may get one final rinse while you’re off onto your next adventure.

We also recommend that you put four ounces or one-half cup of our special Tank Cleaning Solution into both tanks. You already know not to use enzymes, harsh chemicals, or biological agents — those just make matters worse. The solution we recommend can be made cheaply, helps to keep your sensors reading properly, and minimizes odors. Get the recipe for the solution by clicking here.

What to do when you get to your destination.

If you’re off to another RV park or resort, the first thing you do after getting set up is empty those tanks one more time. Sure, you’re just dumping out (relatively) clean water, but it’s a good practice to get into and anything loosened while traveling won’t be sitting around in your tanks for a few days.

When the tanks are empty, be sure to “prime the system” by once again dumping three to five gallons of fresh, clean water into each tank. This gives the tanks a fighting chance and helps to increase the water:waste ratio.

The post Traveling with your RV’s holding tanks appeared first on Kleen Tank.

If you’re like us, you’ve got cabin fever in a big way. We want to get out, into the outdoors. Sit around a campfire on a chilly evening and tell stories. Break out the chili and flannel shirts. Go for walks through the woods. And start planning our weekends away.

But before we do all that, there’s a bit of de-winterizing and preparation your RV’s waste system needs to get it back in top-operating condition and to reduce problems the rest of the year.

Dewinterize your fresh water system.

This one is probably pretty obvious. If you live in a cold winter weather area, you did all you needed to last fall to get your RV’s fresh water system winterized. You drained the tanks and lines of water. You may have blown out the system with compressed air. Or used RV antifreeze to protect against freezing temperatures.

If you used RV anti-freeze, start by connecting your house or city water to your RV and flush out as much of that pink stuff as you can from pipes, drains, holding tanks, etc. After that’s done, fill your RV’s fresh water tank and flush that through the system. You may need to do this a couple times. FYI, this is also a great time to sanitize your fresh water system — and it will rinse away that RV antifreeze at the same time!

Flushing out the holding tanks.

Even though you’re running fresh water through your holding tanks as you dewinterize your fresh water system, a smart strategy to clean out your holding tanks is to do a few back flush rinses once you’ve dewinterized. How do you do that?

Easy! Using the Valterra Flush King Back Flush Valve, rinse out your black tank two to three times (until the water coming back out runs pretty clear). You may only need to do this once or twice on your gray tank(s).

Getting everything lubed up.

Next, lubricate the pulls and valves in your RV’s waste system. We recommend 3-in-1 Silicone Lubricant. Drip a few drops on your holding tank’s pulls, working them back and forth until they move easier.

You may also want to dump a cup of Camco Drain Valve Lube down your toilet and shower drain to lubricate the gate valves in each your holding tanks. This lubricant contains coconut oil and is safe for your tanks and the soft rubber and plastic parts inside the waste system.

Don’t forget the hot water tank.

You drained your RV’s hot water tank (if it has one) when you went through the winterizing process last fall. Now is a great time to give the tank a cleaning and inspect and replace the anode rod, if there is one.

Use a tool like the Camco RV Water Heater Flush Wand, to clean out the hot water tank. Connect the wand to a water supply hose (never a garden hose), turn on the water, and move it back and forth and around inside the tank. It will do a good job of flushing out sediment.

Inspect the anode rod, if your hot water tank has one. If you see the bare wire (like a coat hanger) near the threads or a lot of pitting in the anode, it’s a good idea to replace it. There are 9.5′ anodes for Suburban-brand water heaters and 4.5” anodes for Atwood water heaters (make sure your RV is at least two years old — installing an anode rod in an Atwood water heater will void its warranty).

The annual, professional cleaning.

Finally, if you’re in our service area of coming to one of the rallies we’ll be attending this spring or summer, be sure to sign up for service to get your holding tanks cleaned. It’s fast, economical, and the best way to get your holding tanks “factory clean.”

The post Getting your RV’s waste system ready for the RV season appeared first on Kleen Tank.

One of the most common questions we get at our rally session seminars is what to do about cleaning toilet bowls: Can household chemical cleaners be used? What about disinfectant wipes? And do those long, snake-y hoses that spray water do anything? Let’s take these three questions one at a time, but first, let’s talk about how your RV’s waste system is different than your house’s.

Most mid- to upper-level RVs contain porcelain toilets. It’s only the entry-level and older RVs where we see the plastic, eco-toilets still being used. In fact, if you have one of these plastic pieces of junk, it’s actually pretty easy to remove them and install a porcelain one, such as the Dometic 320 Series RV toilet.

The differences between household toilets and those in RVs are pretty minimal. Both are designed to flush waste from their bowls down a disposal pipe. Most RV versions have a pedal that does the flushing using pressurized water (either via your RV’s pumping system or park water pressure), while household toilets have a reservoir that fills up and holds water, providing sufficient volume and pressure to wash waste away.

However, RV toilets flush water and waste down into your black water holding tank while household toilets quickly move it out of your home’s plumbing system to either the city sewer system or a septic system. Your RV’s holding tanks contain the water and waste until they are emptied. It’s important to note that your RV’s holding tanks are not a septic system — that’s why there is no need to add enzymes, chemicals, or biological agents that will break down waste. Doing so can be the cause of many common problems and frustrations.

Household cleaning chemicals.

Many RVers think they can use the same cleaning chemicals used in their home in their RVs. This is not the case. Cleaners such as Lysol and Clorox have high concentrations of bleach and other harsh chemicals. Exposing your RV’s plumbing systems — especially soft rubber and plastic seals — to these chemicals can accelerate their wear and degrade their composition. Degraded seals can result in tanks that leak waste into the pipe system — a frustration many RVers have experienced when they take off the cap of their RV’s sewer system pipe and they are met with a mess.

We do not recommend the use of harsh chemical cleaners to clean your RV’s toilet. A good alternative is Ecos Toilet Bowl Cleaner. It’s made of plant-derived ingredients and free of lye, phosphates, mineral acids, and chlorine, and does a good job of cleaning. The cedar oil and very mild citric acid eliminate water stains, wipe away mold and mildew, and leave behind a pleasant and fresh cedar scent.

Disinfectant wipes.

Usually, we say it’s okay to use disinfectant wipes if you are careful not to get too much cleaner into the holding tank. Using plenty of fresh water during cleaning is always a good idea and helps to dilute any chemicals that may be in the holding tank. It’s also a good idea to empty your black tank as soon as you have cleaned the toilet bowl and rinse it out with your onboard tank rinser.

A good plant derivative-based cleaning wipe to use are the ones from Green Works. Although they claim to be biodegradable we do not recommend that you allow them to go into your black holding tank and, instead, dispose of them — as you would any cleaning wipe — in the trash.

What about that long snake-y hose thingy?

Many RVers ask us about those long wands or hoses that go down through the toilet bowl and into (they hope) the holding tank. In some RVs — our Airstream travel trailer, for instance — the toilet is placed directly over the black holding tank and anything flushed down goes right into the tank. In most RVs, however, there’s a pipe — usually, one that has at least one bend in it — that conveys waste to the black tank.

These hoses or wands are designed to have a garden-type hose attached to them, then they are put down into the toilet. Water is turned on and holes in the wand or hose spray water out, supposedly cleaning the pipe and/or toilet.

Our opinion? They’re incredibly messy and usually ineffective. First, you have to bring a water hose from outside the RV into your bathroom. Next, you attach that to the hose or wand, which is down where human waste is (you know what we’re talking about). Reversing the whole process (bringing up the wand and carrying it out of the RV) means you could touch something or someone with a waste-covered wand. Extremely unsanitary, at best.

Other cleaning methods.

Cleaners that use hydrogen peroxide — common in many non-bleach cleaners — are probably not a good idea in the long term. At high concentrations, they can eat away at soft rubbers and even some plastics.

Vinegar, or acetic acid, is also mildly acidic and should be avoided as it can pit the surface of some synthetic rubber seals. Vinegar-based cleaners which, if combined with bleach, create toxic chlorine gas which, when combined with water, creates hydrochloric and hypochlorous acids. Not good stuff.

Baking soda — or bicarbonate of soda — is an alkaline substance, on the other end of the pH spectrum from acids such as vinegar. Although not nearly as caustic as vinegar and other similar acids, it could eat away at soft rubber seals just as acids can. It can be used as a cleaning agent, however, if you use sufficient clean water to dilute it and be sure to empty — and flush — your black water holding tank after cleaning the toilet bowl.

Rubbing alcohol or isopropanol can cause stiffening of plastics such as PET (polyethylene terephthalate) or PVC (polyvinyl chloride), making them more likely to crack or even break when stressed. It will also decrease the life of these plastics, especially if they are exposed to extreme cold and hot temperatures.

The post Toilet bowl cleaners: Good or bad? appeared first on Kleen Tank.

Many remember the childhood game of tug of war. Two teams grab a long rope and start pulling. Who wins? Well, whichever team gives up or, more likely, topples over and falls to the ground.

A little tug of war history

You may be surprised that the game of tug of war has national and international federations that sponsor worldwide tournaments. And there are rules … lots of them. Tug of war is an ancient game and there is evidence that is was played in ancient Greece, Egypt, and China. Also known as rope pulling, tugging war, and war of tug, it remains today a popular sport today that pits the strengths of two teams against each other and is practiced in some form in almost every country in the world.

The sport is played by both men and women, and historically was part of the Olympic Games between 1900 and 1920, but has not been included since these dates, despite attempts to bring it back. There are many variations of tug of war around the world including Sokatira in Spain’s Basque Country, Japan’s Tsunahiki, Indonesia’s Tarik Tambang, and Korea’s Jul Parigi.

Waring against your holding tank sensors

If there’s one common frustration with RVers, it’s their holding tank’s sensors. You would think something so common could be engineered to work correctly. Sure, the SeeLevel sensing system, which uses ultrasonic technology to read the tank’s waste level, is pretty accurate and common on most high-end, modern motor coaches.

But when it comes to any other kind of sensors, there’s certainly a love-and-hate — or tug of war — relationship that we all seem to have.

What causes the problems?

We hate to keep beating a dead horse (since we’re full of colloquialisms today!), but the most common cause of tank sensors not reading properly is the waste that is inside the tank. Huh? Yep, it’s the waste inside the tanks that the sensors are designed to read that is actually causing them to read incorrectly.

Most RVers use tank additives — enzymes, bacterial agents, harsh chemical concoctions — that are doing exactly what they are intended to do: break down waste (feces, vomit, toilet paper, and anything else degradable that goes into your toilet) into a more liquid form.

The hope is that the now more-liquid waste will exit the holding tank better, faster, and more completely.

That’s not what happens

But your holding tank system is not a septic system. Those tank additives are working, yes. Just as they are intended. But they are creating a thick, sticky slurry that is adhering to and gumming everything up: holding tank surfaces, drainage pipes and hoses, and, yes, your tank sensor probes.

Think about it: what would drain better out of your holding tanks?

A tank full of thick, sticky slurry, that moves at a very slow rate due to its consistency, adhesiveness, and greatly increased density, or a tank full of mostly water with solids suspended in it?

The tankful of water and intact solids, of course, would drain better and more completely.

So what do you do?

There are some “best practices” that you can do to get your tank sensors reading properly again — and keep them that way.

First, you need to get all of that old waste out of your tanks. Kleen Tank’s proprietary hydro-jetting cleaning technology uses the force of 1500 PSI water pressure to blast out any built-up and old waste lurking in your holding tanks and waste system pipes. Having this service performed regularly is critical to get your sensors back in working shape — and keeping them that way.

Next, stop using those enzymes, bacterial agents, and harsh chemical solutions. They are just making the situation worse and countering the intentions of your RV’s holding tank system — to serve as a way to store waste and water until it can be safely and completely removed.

Also, use more water in your RV’s holding tanks:

• Use an extra toilet bowlful of water after you flush down any solid waste.
• Empty your tanks when they are 90% to 100% full (add water to get the volume that high).
• Turn on your black tank’s flush system while emptying to increase turbulence.
• Use a tool like the Valterra Flush King Reverse Flush Valve to keep your tanks clean between professional servicing.
• “Prime” each tank by adding a few gallons of fresh water back into each tank once you’ve emptied them.
• Be sure to add three to five gallons in each emptied tank before traveling to your next destination.

Finally, be sure to schedule regular, professional cleanings by Kleen Tank or any of our sister All Pro Water Flow companies. Your efforts will only get so much waste removed from your holding tanks. A professional service like Kleen Tank has the technology, experience, and ability to get your holding tanks “factory clean.” Full-time RVers should have this service done twice a year while other RVers are fine with having it done annually.

Keeping your holding tank’s sensors reading properly doesn’t have to be an eternal game of tug of war. There are ways you can get an advantage and win the battle.

The post Stop playing tug of war with your holding tank sensors appeared first on Kleen Tank.

Honestly, there’s nothing worse than shower drains. We’ve cleaned hundreds of black tanks over the years and while they and — surprisingly — some gray tanks are enough to make us get up and walk away and catch our breath, an RVer asking us to look at their shower drain ranks up there with going to the dentist, buying a new car, and putting our dog down.

Plus, when it comes to horrid smells in your RV or coach, the shower drain is what we ask about first. Most RVers feel the way we do about what’s in the drain, but that’s where rotting hair, globby soap, and skin and other bodily debris can get trapped and start making trouble. Even poor construction practices with your RV can result in excess plumber’s putty around the drain, which is very sticky and can fall down into the drain and trap debris.

That’s why regular and thorough cleanings of your shower drain are so critical. Here are some tips to consider when it comes to your RV’s shower drain.

Plungers

Household plungers can damage the delicate structures, piping, and drain in your RV shower. They also can cause a build-up of pressure — something your household plumbing system doesn’t experience — which can damage seals in your tanks. This can also happen to the seal in your toilet if you use a plunger there.

Some newer RVs have a HepVo Waterless Valve in place of the traditional P-trap. This fitting contains an internal, rubber diaphragm that prevents backflow of air and water into your shower. It may also be in your bathroom and galley sink. In fact, with the HepVo valve, using a plunger can cause the one-way valve to be sucked backward. Replacement entails severing the PVC drain line, a very painstaking and potentially costly repair.

Snakes and other physical clog removal tools

The common household metallic snake is a coiled, tension cord that you feed into your drain and then spin or revolve, usually by means of a handle at one end. You should avoid these at all costs in your RV. Should the snake snag onto a soft rubber seal or gate valve in your holding tank, it can rip it up, damaging it to the point of needing replacement.

Some RVers have long, plastic, double-barbed plumbing snake. It looks like a whip (usually orange or yellow), made of pliant, but still hard plastic. Each side of the snake has barbs or hooks on it, the idea being that putting this down your drain will grab anything in there for you to pull it out.

Just as with plungers, if your RV has a HepVo or other brand of checkvalve, you want to avoid anything damaging down your drain. If you’re unsure of what’s down there, avoid tools that can make the situation worse.

Clog-dissolving chemicals

Using household clog-dissolving chemicals in your shower (or other) drain, like Liquid Plumber, Drain-O, or other digesters is not recommended. The chemicals here — mostly lye and sodium hypochlorate (bleach) — cause chemical reactions that dissolve organic matter. Small shards of aluminum are usually included in the mixtures, creating a strong reaction that generates heat at near-boiling temperatures. The heat speeds the decomposition process.

This process can soften and even break PVC pipes. And these chemicals can eat away at the glue holding your waste system together. They are also very damaging to soft rubber and plastic, such as in your gate valve and gate seals.

Finally, these chemicals are very caustic and cause skin, lung, and other soft membrane damage (like in your eyes) through corrosion of organic tissue. And if there’s any of this chemical left behind, adding a cleaning product late can create toxic fumes.

Regular cleanings

Really, the best solution is to regularly clean out your RV’s shower (and others) drain by hand. It’s a smelly, gross, and messy job, yes, but removing the drain cover and using something like a doctor’s hemostat (you can get them at flea markets, some hardware stores, and online. They’re a great addition to your RV Tool Kit.

The post Shower drain woes appeared first on Kleen Tank.