We get it. As an RVer, you’re looking for a dump-and-forget solution to your holding tanks. Something that will (hopefully) get (and keep) tank sensors reading accurately again. Something that will eliminate (or, at least, reduce) odors from your holding tanks. And maybe even something that seems to make emptying of your tanks easier, faster, and more complete.

We get it. As RVers, we want that too.

Your tank solution is not helping matters

That’s right. Whether you’re putting in an enzyme solution, some mystical mixture of chemicals, or — hopefully not — a formaldehyde additive, what you are adding to your RV’s holding tanks is actually making situation in them worse.

You see, that tank solution is doing exactly what it was designed to do: Digest, breakdown, or otherwise change the consistency of the solid waste in your holding tank to something more liquid. The problem is, that liquid is more like a pancake batter — thick, sticky, and likely to be now fouling up your holding tank’s sensors.

And besides misreading sensors, that sticky mess never truly drains out of your black holding tank. Some of it stays behind, in your tank, each time you pull the tank valve release. Over time, more and more builds up, causing more and more problems.

Think of it this way: What would exit a holding tank quicker and more completely? A tank full of thick, sticky pancake batter-like waste or a tank of water with solids floating around in it? The second situation, of course.

How do you stop the cycle?

First, stop using that digesting tank solution you’ve been using. Then, schedule a service for a professional tank cleaning with Kleen Tank or any of our sister All Pro Water Flow dealers. That’s the only way you’re tanks will get truly “factory clean.”

Practice good tank care by following these additional recommendations:

• Only empty your holding tanks when they are 90% to 100% full. If you have to empty them before that point, add fresh, clean water to raise the level in your tanks.
• Flush your holding tanks after they are empty by using the Valterra Flush King Back Flush Valve. It works on both your black and gray tanks and will help keep your tanks clean.
• “Prime the system” after empty the tanks by adding three to five gallons of water (depending on your holding tank’s capacity) before using your RV’s waste system again.

And now, the special recipe

If you want to use a tank additive, we recommend the following:

• Use a clean, empty one-gallon plastic jug or bottle
• Measure 40 ounces of Pine-Sol (or similar pine oil cleaner) into the jug or bottle
• Add four ounces of Calgon bath powder, liquid, or bath beads to the jug or bottle
• Slowly add water to the jug or bottle. The contents will foam, so be patient.
• Put the cap on the jug or bottle and shake
• Every time you’ve emptied your holding tanks, add 1/2 cup of this solution (to both tanks)

What’s this solution do?

Remember, your holding tanks are not a septic system. You do not want anything breaking down in them. The key ingredient here is the Calgon. It’s a surfacant, breaking down the surface tension of water or liquid in the tank and making the tank’s surfaces slippery. It will help waste from sticking to the inside of the tank.

The Pine-Sol is a strong disinfectant and has an odor-masking quality. Note that you can use other brands of pine oil cleaner than Pine-Sol.

Follow this recipe and you can make a gallon of tank solution for about $10. That’s 50 tank treatments! If you see us at an RV rally you’re at, ask us for a sample bottle of this solution. We’ve got plenty and love to hand them out to fellow RVers.

The post Throw away your RV tank additive; use this instead appeared first on Kleen Tank.

Almost every RVer complains about their holding tanks. It seems that no matter how new (or old!) the RV is, the tank sensors just don’t read accurately (if at all).

It’s probably the number one question we get asked: How can we get our sensors working again?

Our recommendation is to have your tanks professionally cleaned and then to follow the right practices to keep them that way. In about 19 out of 20 cases, our hydrojetting process can get your sensors functioning properly again. But if you fall back into the habits that got them misreading, you’ll soon be frustrated.

We get asked about the GEO method a lot. So what is it and does it work?

Tank sensors
First, let’s talk a bit about how your tank’s sensors are designed and work. Most RV tank sensors have four (sometimes, five) problems that stick into the tank. When water (or other liquid) touches a probe, it completes a circuit and turns on the appropriate LED light on your sensor panel to indicate the relative level of fullness of the tank.

It’s a very poorly designed system (though cheap to produce and install, thus why it’s widely used). The probes have a tendency to allow sediment, slime, toilet paper, and other crud to cover them. They are notorious for getting fouled up and misreading. And getting — and keeping — them clean is difficult.

Cleaners, chemicals, enzymes, and biologicals
There are a ton of these out there. Pods, liquids, and powders, in every color you can imagine. Sometimes you pour a ton in, other times, it’s a capful.

The problem with all of these is that they are actually creating the problem. They’re doing the job they are intended to do; breaking down the waste in your tanks (especially, your black tank). And that resulting slurry of pancake batter-like mixture is that it coats those sensor probes and prevents them from reading accurately.

The GEO method
This method of cleaning your holding tanks requires only two ingredients: Calgon water softener and Dawn (or any other brand) dish detergent. It used to also include chlorine bleach, but that’s pretty caustic and can ruin your tank’s valves and seals.

The Calgon helps to break down water surface tension, cleaning scum and preventing hard mineral deposits. Some people use Borax, though that’s a bit more caustic and, in our opinion, should be avoided due to it’s high alkaline content.

The Dawn detergent dissolves oils (which we’ll talk about in a bit) and cuts “grime.” We’re not sure that that actually is and. honestly, we don’t like the addition of a detergent to this solution.

Why?

No detergent needed
The GEO Method is simple: Calgon and detergent, like Dawn liquid. In our opinion, the detergent (Dawn, or, sometimes, Tide or another dish cleaning or laundry liquid) isn’t needed. In fact, by breaking up oils, it tends to increase the tendency of already slippery tank and pipe surfaces to hold onto debris.

What do we recommend?
Our recommendation is very close to the GEO method: Calgon water softener (and not Borax), for sure, but also the addition of Pine-Sol disinfectant/cleaner. It doesn’t break down oils as much as the Dawn detergent does, has a stronger, more pleasant smell (you can use any scent), and has a disinfectant property.

• Here’s how to make your own:
• Purchase or find a clean, one-gallon (128-ounce) bottle
• Pour in 40 ounces of Pine-Sol (generic or alternative pine-based cleaners can also be used)
• Pour in 4 ounces of Calgon (we like the bath beads)
• SLOWLY pour in water to fill the one-gallon bottle (it will foam like crazy and take time to fill completely)
• Gently shake

For most holding tanks (both black AND gray; 30-50 gallons in capacity), pour in four ounces (1/2 cup) EVERY time you empty your holding tanks. A one-gallon bottle of this solution will give you about 50 tank treatments, all for a cost of roughly ten dollars.

The post What is the GEO Method? appeared first on Kleen Tank.