With 2018 winding down, we thought we’d take a few moments to count up the numbers, draw some conclusions about 2018, and think ahead to 2019. Ready? Here we go!

Sixteen RV rallies
In 2018, Kleen Tank attended 16 RV manufacturer or owners club rallies, in four states (California, Indiana, Iowa, and Oklahoma). This was an all-time high for us and we enjoyed every single rally we attended (except for Jayco, which we had to leave as one of our Collies, Trey, was not doing well — we ended up putting him down a few days later when we learned he had late-stage cancer).

191 RVs serviced
Another record for us. From luxury motor coaches to gigantic fifth wheels (one with two black tanks and three gray tanks!) to travel trailers and more, we serviced more RVs in 2018 than in any year previously. We’ve got plenty of stories to tell — some really interesting, some really gross, and some, well, it was an adventure!

586 tanks cleaned
That includes black tanks, gray tanks, and hot water heater tanks. That’s a lot of tanks, folks, and we are well on our way to 2,000 tanks cleaned during the six years our company has been in existence. Needless to say, we’ve seen it all!

426 seminar attendees
Every rally we attended had at least one seminar. We typically put on two — one on holding tank maintenance and the other on water heaters — but we also have a “combo” one that covers both topics pretty evenly. If you haven’t taken a look at the questions (and answers!) from our 2018 rally seminars, we have them here: Part One, Part Two, and Part Three.

633 Facebook fans
Yep, we took a giant leap forward in fans of our Facebook Page (Facebook.com/KleenTank). If you’re not a fan, go ahead and become one. We publish new posts there every day — and they’re not just about poop!

What’s coming in 2019?
Well, we currently have 13 RV rallies scheduled, so we’re being a bit more selective on where we’ll be. We thought we’d be closer to our home base this year, but it looks like Grand Design is calling our name in Georgia, Indiana, Michigan, and Missouri, and we’re doing two new rallies (in a row) down in Louisiana. Wonder if we’ll be at one of your rallies? Check out our Rally Calendar web page. Be sure to sign-up for service ahead of time and SAVE $25 off our rally pricing!

At some of our rallies, we are hosting social events like Pajama Party Breakfasts and Tiki Bar Happy Hours. It’s our way to try to make friends of fellow RVers too! Come join us.

At our seminars, we’ll be featuring a brand new, see-through, plastic holding tank that will show they work, explain where and how sensors are at, and be a better hands-on tool for answering your questions. We’ve got more “show and tell” items to pass around and some special surprises. Don’t forget that every seminar has a drawing for a free VISA gift card.

Our vendor hall booth will still have a lot of great items for sale, including Water Heater Flush Wands, the Valterra Flush King backflush valve, 9.5″ and 4.5″ water heater anodes, Sewer Saddle Bags, and our very popular Save-a-Drop water meters (we sold out of everyone we had at our rallies!).

We’re looking forward to 2019. Traveling, servicing RVers, and meeting new (and old) friends. See you out there and safe travels.

The post 2018 Was a Very Good Year appeared first on Kleen Tank.

Today is the third part in our series of questions and answers from this year’s rally seminars. We met hundreds of attendees at the sixteen rallies we did and had some great questions asked. Be sure to check out Part One and Part Two if you missed them. Otherwise, here we go (and there are five bonus questions this time, making ten total!):

Q. Can I use the GEO method of keeping my holding tanks clean?
A. The GEO method is a mid-1970s sort of “home-brew” method of keeping your RV’s waste holding tanks clean. The basic idea was to create a mixture of Borax (a water softener), Calgon (or another detergent), and bleach (along with water, to dilute the mixture). This was used as a tank additive in lieu of enzymes, bacterials, or harsh chemicals, such as formaldehyde.

The basic concept is sound, however, Borax is a very harsh alkaline chemical that can corrode metal parts (such as the sensor nubs in your tanks). Detergent should be avoided in black tanks (it’s hard to not have it in your gray tanks!) as it can reduce the slipperiness of plastic holding tank surfaces over time. Finally, bleach is highly corrosive and will eat away soft rubbers and plastic, such as are found in your tank’s valves and seals.

A better option to Borax is Calgon, which is not nearly as corrosive. Adding Pine-Sol or another pine oil cleaner to the solution is preferred, as it has disinfectant qualities and strong odor-masking properties. For the “recipe” to formulate your own tank additive, please visit this link.

Q. How good of a job does my black tank flush system do?
A. Your RV’s black tank flush system sprays water in a “set” pattern at approximately 100PSI-150PSI (due to the reduction in hose size and spray nozzle opening). While this is better than nothing, it doesn’t have enough force or volume to remove sticky waste on the surfaces of your tank, nor can it adequately remove build-up against the front (downslope) wall of your tank, where waste collects.

That being said, be sure to turn on your black tank’s flush system while emptying the black — the extra turbulence from the flush system will help to move waste out of your black water holding tank.

The only way to get your holding tanks truly “factory clean” is through the process of extremely high (1500PSI) water pressure and the continued use of adequate water usage and a tank solution to keep them that way.

Q. Why do my gray tanks smell worse than my black tank sometimes?
A. For one thing, no current RV manufacturer includes an in-tank rinsing system for their gray tanks like there is in the black tank. This lack of a rinsing process means that waste only leaves the tank when it is emptied. Many RV owners leave gray tank valves open all the time, further promoting the lack of complete tank emptying (waste mounds up or is left behind and begins the process of decomposition).

Additionally, a lot of RV owners do not add any sort of tank additive to their gray tanks, thinking incorrectly that they are only intended for black tanks. Adding to the problem is the likelihood that RV owners are not using enough water in their tanks (either before emptying or a part of a “priming the system” action after they have been emptied and before using them again).

Q. Everyone says that I should empty my black tank before my gray tank. Is this right?
A. Ready for a revelation? No! Do not empty your black tank before your gray one(s). But here’s the catch: Open your gray tank pull just a little bit, allowing some of the (relatively) clean wastewater to coat the sides of the sewer hose first. Then, close the gray tank pull, drain the black tank (turn on your built-in flush system during this process — more turbulence!), close the black tank pull, then drain the remaining gray tank(s).

Why do you open the gray water tank pull first? The relatively clean water in your gray tank “sticks” to the interior surfaces of your dry(ish) sewer hose (the “slinky”), creating a barrier. When the black tank wastewater then travels down the hose, it is likely to travel at a faster speed (there’s already a barrier of “clean” water on the interior of the hose). Following up with the gray tank water will completely clean the inside of the hose.

We know, it sounds weird, but it’s physics!

Q. Should I leave water in my holding tanks when I am not using my RV?
A. If you are leaving or storing your RV for a short period of time (a few days to a couple of weeks), then it is okay to leave water (not waste!) in your holding tanks. In fact, 3-5 gallons will help keep things lubricated and you’ll be ready for traveling to your next destination or continued use of the RV where it is located.

Longer term, no, we do not recommend that you keep water in your tanks, and, certainly not any waste. If you are in an area where temperatures could drop below freezing for any amount of time, you can see the danger of allowing any liquid to freeze and potentially damage waste system components.

Q. Can I use Dawn or another detergent in my holding tanks?
A. Your RV’s holding tanks are basically large, plastic boxes. Detergent, like Dawn, should be avoided in black tanks (it’s hard to not have it in your gray tanks!) as it can reduce the slipperiness of plastic holding tank surfaces over time. As the tank’s surfaces become less slippery, waste will have a tendency to stick to them. This is especially true if you are using an enzyme, biological, or harsh chemical that breaks down waste into a thick, sticky, pancake batter-like mess.

Q. What’s your opinion of macerators in my RV’s sewer handling system?
A. Macerators have pros and cons. One of the cons is that they tend to be complex pieces of machinery that can break (especially the impellers) from time to time. Also, pumping out waste through the small (1″ to 1-1/2″ in diameter) hoses can take longer than through a standard 3″ sewer hose. You also lose the vortex or “tornadic effect” of emptying the tank due to the slowness of the waste leaving vs. through the larger diameter sewer hose. On the pro side, macerators seem more convenient and are certainly a less-messy way to empty your holding tanks.

From our perspective, cleaning holding tanks with a macerator attached or built-in can be difficult (resulting in more time, and thus a higher cost) or, sometimes, impossible.

Q. How often should I empty my holding tanks?
A. Whenever they need to be emptied — or you need empty them (when you’re about to travel, for instance)! The key here is to make sure to empty them when they are 90%-100% full of water. This allows sufficient down-pressure from the full tank of water or liquid to create a vortex or “tornadic effect” in the tank, driving liquid and waste out of the tank (as opposed to a slow seep, leaving solids behind).

Also, remember to “prime the system” by adding 3-5 gallons (depending on the total capacity of your tank) to each holding tank after emptying and prior to using again.

Q. Can you sanitize your holding tanks?
A. Well, there’s no way to — or reason why you would — sanitize your black and gray holding tanks. They are designed to hold human, food, and other waste which is, by definition, not sanitary.

There is a process to sanitize your fresh water holding tank and you should follow it religiously. It involves introducing a mild solution of household bleach into your fresh water holding tank and water plumping system, letting it sit for a period of time to sanitize, quickly getting the bleachy water out of your holding tanks, and rinsing with fresh, clean water (to remove any trace bleach which can affect the taste).

Q. Why do RV sales centers, salespeople, and manufacturers and vendors of enzyme-, biological-, and chemical-based tank solutions say you should use those over your methods and recommendations?
A. It’s a good question, and probably the one we get asked the most. For one thing, there’s an ignorance in the industry: Everyone is frustrated that tank sensors don’t read accurately, but few realize that adding tank additives that break down waste is what is actually creating the problem (the tank’s contents becomes a thick, sticky, pancake batter-like mess).

We’ve cleaned nearly 1,000 holding tanks on hundreds of RVs, from travel trailers to fifth wheels to motor coaches. In every case, we can tell when tank additives are used. What slowly comes out of an “empty” tank is a river of sludgy and smelly mess. Every time. Looking for a better alternative? Try our recommended solution. Click here for the recipe.

Well, that’s it for our three-part series on questions and answers from our 2018 rally seminars. If you have any other questions we didn’t cover here or in Part One or Part Two, please feel free to contact us via email or telephone (815-508-3878).

The post RV Holding Tank Questions, Part Three appeared first on Kleen Tank.

Miss Part One in our series of rally seminar question and answer articles? You may want to take a look at that blog entry too! Here are five more questions we commonly get asked.

Q. How do I clean my gray water tank sensors?
A. It seems gray tank sensors work about as well as black tank sensors! The reasons they don’t work are pretty similar: There’s a build-up for waste or other matter on the sensors in the tank, preventing accurate readings. Our special tank solution — a simple mixture of Calgon, Pine-Sol, and water — will work in your gray tanks too, helping to keep them clean and, in most cases, keeping working sensors reading accurately.

Q. How do you keep a black tank from smelling?
A. Black (and gray, for that matter) tanks smell because they contain human and other type of waste in them. The most you can do is mask the smell. Even adding enzymes, bacteria, or harsh chemicals that break down waste only make that same smelly mess just a tank-load of sticky, smelly waste. Our special tank solution contains Pine-Sol, a good disinfectant AND a great odor masking ingredient. Give it a try.

Q. How do I unclog my RV’s toilet?
A. That’s a messy situation, to say the least. Many RV owners will use an RV toilet cleaning wand, a long (24″ to 30″) tube of plastic that connect to a garden hose and has holes in the end to spray water down the toilet and into the holding tank. While this may work in some cases, many RV toilets have a bend in the waste pipe or longer drop into the tank. Plus, using these flush wands could introduce human waste into the interior of your RV. Yuck!

Kleen Tank has special equipment to clear mounds, clogs, and other obstructions. You may want to contact us for this special situation — a complete tank cleaning is also part of our process to clear the problem.

Q. What can I use to clean my RV toilet?
A. We presume the question is about the surfaces of the toilet, specifically the bowl. While you should never introduce bleach or other harsh cleaning chemicals into your waste system (they can break down soft rubber seals over time), there is a good way to keep your toilet clean.

First, be sure you are using enough water in the bowl. Follow each bowlful of waste with a bowlful of water. And we like to add another half bowl of water to the toilet to act as a seal against smells coming up from the holding tank.

Second, our special hold tank solution has Calgon in it which will keep all the surfaces of your RV’s waste system slippery. Yep, even the toilet bowl.

Finally, you can use a cleaning wipe to quickly clean the toilet bowl. Use gloves, of course, and never flush down the wipe into the holding tank — just throw it away.

Q. Can I dump my gray water directly onto the ground?
A. We know people who have done this in extreme circumstances (like book docking or when their gray water tank filled up before a honey wagon could come or they could visit a dump station). In general, it’s not a good idea and may even be prevented by state or local laws. Plan ahead to eliminate the need to have to do this. Use the RV park’s facilities and shower, wash dishes in a bucket and dump it down a dump station drain, or try to use bathroom facilities when you are in town.

We’ve got more questions from rally seminars to share with you in the coming weeks. Come back to read more and be a smart RVer!

The post More rally seminar questions appeared first on Kleen Tank.

A large part of our business happens at RV manufacturer and owners club rallies. In fact, this past year, we attended a record-breaking 16 rallies, from Indiana to Oklahoma to Iowa and even California. We estimate we’ve traveled nearly 15,000 miles this year, attending RV rallies. And at each one, we put on at least one (sometimes two!) seminar, usually on RV holding tanks.

At our seminars, we go over the construction, purpose, and function of RV holding tanks (which ***are not*** part of a septic system), have plenty of show-and-tells, hand out a convenient and helpful study guide, and answer plenty of RV owner questions. Today, we’re publishing the first in a series of those questions — with our answers for every RVer to benefit from. Here we go!

Q. Can I use two-ply toilet paper in my RV’s toilet?
A. Well, we put this question first as it’s probably one of the most popular ones we get! The truth is, as long as you are using enough water in your toilet and holding tank, you can use whatever toilet paper you would like. One-ply, two-ply, quilted, or scented. There’s no need to use “RV toilet paper” and certainly not any that costs $8 a roll. Remember, your holding tank is not a septic system, so things don’t need to — nor should — break down. Doing so (promoted by enzymes, bacterials, and harsh chemicals) causes the tank’s contents to become a thick, sticky slurry, sticking to tank surfaces (including sensors) and generally making tanks drain very slowly and never completely.

Q. How often should I replace my sewer hose?
A. The answer really depends on how often you use it, but generally speaking, with fairly frequent use, sewer hoses last about three to five years. It’s always a good idea to keep a spare on hand — and even an extension. We like to keep the old one as our spare and replace them fairly frequently. Old sewer hose’s plastic can degrade, making them brittle and subject to cracking and splitting.

Q. Can I leave my gray tank’s release valve open all the time?
A. Ah, another frequent question. We recommend that you leave all (and, for certain, your black tank’s) tank release valves closed until you are ready to empty the tanks. Why? If you leave the valves open, water or liquid slowly trickles out, leaving behind solids. Even though these may be small (as in gray tanks), they can accumulate over time, creating mounds and piles of rotting waste. The only time we might leave open a gray tank valve would be while we’re doing laundry. However, unless you’re using more than your gray tank’s capacity, keeping the valve closed during this time is a great way to achieve 100% capacity before emptying, ensuring a nice “clean flush.”

Q. How often should I empty my tanks?
A. As often as you would like! There’s no right or wrong as to when (other than being full!) or how often you should empty your RV’s holding tanks. The only word of advice is that you empty them when they are 90%-100% full. By doing this (even, adding water to get the level up), the tank’s liquid content will create a whirlpool (tornado) effect, pulling waste from the tank as it quickly empties. Emptying a tank that is less than 50% full will result in a slow seepage, where waste is left behind.

Q. How often should I have my holding tanks professionally cleaned?
A. At least once a year, unless you are a full-timer, in which case we recommend twice a year. Look, your black tank’s spray system can only do so much. At roughly 100-150 PSI of pressure, it sprays in a set pattern that never completely cleans the inside of your black tank. Only our process, using 1500 PSI (that’s ten times!) pressure can truly get your holding tanks “factory clean.”

That’s it for this round of questions. Come back again for another five. In the meantime, please be sure ask any questions you may have and be sure to attend our seminars (they are a bit different, from year to year) when you’re at a rally we are attending.

The post Questions from Summer Rally Seminars, Part 1 appeared first on Kleen Tank.

First, those tank additives — biologicals, enzymes, or chemicals — are doing exactly what they claim to: They break down solids and other waste in your holding tanks, especially the black tank. Given the right conditions and time, anything in your tank turns into a thick sludge — that’s also very sticky, like pancake batter.

So, think about it. Your holding tank is a big, plastic box. There’s a fair amount (we hope) of water or, at least, liquid in there. You introduce waste and solids, such as toilet paper. In what situation would that holding tank empty faster, more completely, and better? Full of water with solids suspended in it or full of that soft, sticky, broken-down mess? Yep, the water with solids suspended in it.

But we’re told we need to add something to our tanks, right? Yes, we are told that. By RV dealers who don’t know any better. By tank additive manufacturers who want you to buy their product. By RV rally vendors who want to make a sale.

The truth is, the only thing you need to add to your tanks is water. And lots of it. And then dump with some frequency, probably more than you do now. Your RV’s holding tanks are just that — holding tanks — not a septic system. It is not intended for you to have stuff in there for long, encouraging it all to break down with chemicals, enzymes, and other additives.

How do we know tank additives are bad? Because we’ve cleaned nearly a thousand holding tanks and EVERY time a customer uses additives to break down waste, what comes out during our cleaning is a literal slow-moving river of sticky, messy and smelly slurry. A healthy tank is one that empties quickly (because solids are suspended in water), completely (because nothing is sticking to surfaces, especially those darned sensors), and without problems (clog and mounds are eliminated because tanks are completely emptied more often).

If you must use an additive, we recommend a simple mixture of Calgon bath beads (a water softener) and Pine-Sol. The water softener breaks the surface tension of water in the tank, preventing anything from sticking to tank surfaces and sensors. The Pine-Sol is a disinfectant with strong odor masking properties, it will keep your tanks smelling better.

How do you make this solution? Easy! Take an empty gallon (128 ounce) bottle or jug. Add in 40 ounces (5 cups) of Pine-Sol (or something similar, like Pine Power). Pour in 4 ounces (1/2 cup) of Calgon (we like the bath pearls, but liquid or powder is fine too). Carefully fill the gallon bottle or jug with water (it will foam a lot, so go slowly and allow the foam to settle). Shake thoroughly. Pour in 1/2 to one cup of this mixture into your black tank each time, after you empty it. You can also use 1/2 cup in your gray tank to keep it functioning well too.

Use whatever tank additive you wish. Or not. But if it’s a biological, enzyme, or chemical, be sure to schedule more frequent tank cleanings — you’ll need them to get your tanks clean and your sensors working properly again.

The post Which Tank Additive is Best? appeared first on Kleen Tank.

Q. What is causing misreading problems on my waste tank probes or sensors?
A. Misreading problems on waste tanks are caused by two things: Unclean tanks with sludge, paper or calcium build-up on the sensors, or electrical problems with the sensors and control panel. In almost every case, sensor problems are usually caused by dirty tanks. Our hydro-jetting system is designed to scrub your sensors clean. Only our process will truly get your sensors working again.

Q. Is the combining of different chemicals in my holding tank causing odors?
A. Yes. The mixing of different chemicals can cause a reaction that generates odors.

Q. How is the use of chemical treatments affecting our environment and the city sewage treatment plants in every city?
A. Every time you dump your chemically-treated holding tanks, that sewage must be treated by the local sewage treatment center. So, fewer chemicals make it easier to recycle and reclaim the water for the environment. Not one chemical company will argue that their chemicals are better for the environment than fresh clean water.

Q. If I purchased a pre-owned RV, did I get somebody else’s “foreign matter?”
A. Yes, because onboard cleaning attachments (i.e. your RV’s black tank flush system) and chemicals are not powerful enough to remove all foreign matter. Our cameras show this fact. Also, some RV dealers reselling an RV will simply fill the tanks full of chemicals, let them sit a while, and then dump them a couple of times without actually flushing out the system in any real way.

Q. Is a tank replacement necessary if I have an odor or misreading problem that can’t be solved with chemicals?
A. Very, very rarely. These types of problems are usually caused by unclean tanks. A thorough hydro jet cleaning of your waste tanks will almost always solve these problems.

Q. Do cleaning attachments that an RV owner can buy really work? What PSI pressure are they operating at?
A. In many cases, these attachments will help some, but only if there is a minimal build up of waste matter in your tanks. Most of these consumer-type attachments, however, screw onto a common garden hose and operate at only 40 to 50 PSI, not the 1,500-3,000 PSI that our specialized equipment works at.

Q. How often should I get my RV’s holding tanks cleaned by a professional using the hydro jet cleaning process?
A. We recommend that your RV have a professional hydro jet cleaning at least once a year to keep waste and other matter from building up. It’s also a good idea to have your tanks professionally flushed just before winterizing. We’ll also walk you through the things you can do in between cleanings to keep your RV’s sensors working.

Q. How long does the process take and do I need to leave my RV?
A. Our hydro jet cleaning process is scheduled by appointment and completed in about one and one-half hours, while you wait. There is no need to leave your RV, though we do request you to be on-site. We’ll answer all of your questions, review with you what we are doing, and give you some instruction for things you can do to keep your tanks clean and your sensors working between annual, professional cleanings.

Q. How do I know if all of the waste and foreign matter is out of my tanks?
A. We welcome you to watch the process. You’ll see what we are flushing out through the clear pipe connector we attach to your RV and you’ll see when the water turns clean and clear. It’s amazing how dirty the tanks are, especially when our customers do everything they would “normally” do to keep their tanks cleaned. In almost every case, your RV’s sensors will begin registering properly after our cleaning process.

The post Your Top 10 Questions and Our Answers About RV Holding Tanks appeared first on Kleen Tank.